Sewing a clean t-shirt neckline can be the start of getting your handmade knit garments to have a finish you can be proud of.
Now, you could master the classic knit neckband which is a worthy goal. But there’s so many more ways to sew a t-shirt neckline! Refashioning has taught me a lot about how ready-to-wear deals with binding knit edges. What I’ve learned is that no one does one thing all the time.
And since I’m all about giving you options so that you can add your own flair, let me show you 4 ways to sew a t-shirt neckline.
Table of Contents
Finish a knit neckline with a knit neckband
Start here for sewing your knit necklines if you’re new to sewing with knits. If you ever measure it, a neckband needs to be shorter than the neckline. That’s because the inside of the circle is shorter than the outside. But that means you have to stretch the neckband to fit inside the larger neckline. This method is fantastic for helping you stretch a neckband evenly around a neckband. So how to do this…
Measuring your neckband?
First, measure your neckline. Take a tape measure and measure along the seamline of the neckline all the way around. The general wisdom is to subtract 10% from that number. So say your neckline measures 60cm. 10% of 60 is 6, so your neckband needs to be 54 cm. It could be that you need to subtract more–up to 15%, but start with the 10%. And if measuring freaks you out, assume that the pattern piece for your neckband is correct (it probably is).
Prepping to sew the neckband
Press the neckband in half long ways. Unfold the neckband and sew the short ends right sides together with the seam allowance called for in your pattern.
Next, quarter your neckline and the neckband. On the t-shirt, fold the shoulder seams together to find center back and center front. Mark both with a pin. Then fold the pins together to find the other quarter marks. Do the same for the neckband, using the seam as your center back.
Matching the quarter marks and sewing
Match your pins together starting at center back, pinning the neck band and t-shirt together only at the quarter marks.
Sewing with the neckband on top, sew the neckband to the t-shirt. You will have to stretch the neckband between the pins so that it fits into the curve of the t-shirt neckline. Do NOT stretch the t-shirt neckline!
I did this one on my serger, but of course, you can use your sewing machine with a narrow zigzag. From there, press the neckline seam towards the body of the t-shirt. You can stop here or stitch the neckline down with a narrow zigzag, a twin needle or a coverstitch. The extra topstitch keeps the seam nice and flat and less irritating on your neck.
Clean finish binding for knit necklines
Follow the steps for the neckband, quartering the neckband and t-shirt. Stitch the neckband to the t-shirt, stretching between your quarter marks just like before.
The difference here is instead of leaving the neck seam exposed on the inside of the shirt, we’re going to press the whole neckband to the inside.
I like to hand baste the binding into place, but feel free to pin. Sew down the neckband into place from the right side close to that pressed edge of the neckband.
Onto the lazy person’s knit neckline binding method!
Elizabeth Farr is the writer behind the Elizabeth Made This blog where she shares helpful sewing tips, step by step sewing tutorials and videos to help you explore your creativity through sewing. She has written sewing Eguides and patterns, been a featured teacher at Rebecca Page’s Sewing Summit and Jennifer Maker’s Holiday Maker Fest and her work has appeared in Seamwork and Altered Couture magazines. She also created a line of refashioned garments for SEWN Denver. When her sewing machine isn’t humming, she’s playing and teaching violin, and hanging around a good strategic board game with her husband and 4 kids.
Elizabeth this was a fabulous tutorial! I’ve bookmarked it and written in my sewing book to look it up next time I’m doing a knit neck band – my favourite that you mention here is especially the “hidden” neckband and basting it on first. I like this! It’s less casual and sporty 🙂 Thank you always for putting such helpful sewing tutorials online both in print and on your youtube channel.
Thank you Kathleen! I need to write a love letter to hand-basting stitches one of these days–it makes so many things in sewing easier. Thanks for always being such an encouraging person!
Hi, I’ve noticed you use a straight stitch to topstitch the donut shirt. Does this tend to hold up okay? I’ve been topstitching with zigzag, my machine doesn’t get along with twin needles and I’m just curious as to whether the stitches would pop through! Thanks
It’s not a straight stitch–it’s made with a coverstitch. On the right side it looks like a straight stitch, but a coverstitch machine builds in recovery so that when the stitches get stretched they will not pop. A regular straight stitch on a sewing machine will pop. If you want a similar look, a narrow zigzag is the best option. Set your width on the zigzag down to 0.5 mm and the length at 2.5-3.0mm. This almost looks like a straight stitch, but that tiny bit of zigzag builds in the recovery you need to keep the stitches from popping.