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Wardrobe Sudoku

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Whew, these last 2 months have been a haul!  I didn’t expect or plan at first to enter this contest.  10 garments seems like a really big commitment, but in the end, the projects that I’ve been working on kept fitting in the same color scheme.  Aside from writing and picture taking, the pace of this contest hasn’t felt too overwhelming.  Unifying a capsule wardrobe by color is a good strategy, and it worked out well for me here.  First, here’s my grid for Wardrobe Sudoku 2017:

Combinatorics

Wardrobe Sudoku is really an exercise in combinatorics. My PhD in Physics/Programmer/Math Man husband informs me that there’s 256 different ways to pull a set of 4 out of a grid of 16.  He wrote out a simple formula in Excel, and indeed, there’s 256 combinations.  No doubt some of these will work better than others, and you may not get as many real combinations if your items clash somehow.

Klarisbet got me thinking about “advanced” Sudoku, and I think it’d be a fun thing to explore.  I came up with nearly 60 different possibilities on paper before we turned to Excel to generate the rest of the combos.  I photographed 30 combinations.

Across combinations:

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Down combinations:

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Diagonals and corners:

wardrobe sudokuwardrobe sudokuwardrobe sudoku

Quad combinations:

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Split quad combinations:

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Monkey business combinations: because at some point, it’s all bananas

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In case you missed them, here are all of the items that make up my grid:

Tops:

  1. Burdastyle 2-2013-109 striped asymmetric top
  2. Hummingbird tee (Burdastyle 2-2011-106)
  3. Ottobre 5-2007-15 cotton lawn tunic with pleated trim
  4. Lace bodysuit from Jalie’s Bella

Bottoms:

  1. Nanette Lepore Giraffe Sateen Ottobre 5-2014-19 skinny jeans
  2. Burdastyle 1-2008-111 denim skirt
  3. Burdastyle 8-2017-105 asymmetric skirt
  4. Pale blue Designer Stitch Alyse pants

Extras:

  1. Burdastyle 12-2009-111 blue twill motorcycle jacket
  2. Itch to Stitch Lisbon Cardigan with fringe trim
  3. Reverse Applique Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan
  4. Burda 7018 sea glass denim jacket

Footwear:

  1. Bleached Canvas Dritz Espadrilles

  2. Bare Traps Adalia boots in cognac

  3. Toffee wedges

  4. Nine west cream flats

Is anyone up for a Wardrobe Sudoku wearing challenge?  I’m thinking about doing something with this for Me Made May.

 

Pleated Trim Tunic

I’m wrapping up my Wardrobe Sudoku makes, and I’m saving the best for last.  Today, let me introduce you to this Pleated Trim Tunic Dress.

If you remember one of my #2017makenine was this shirtdress/tunic from MyImage.  Well, I did a muslin of that pattern, and it was an utter disaster.  Somebody commented on my Instagram that her experience with MyImage is that they’re drafted for tall Dutch people.  Being neither tall nor Dutch, all I can say is that the armpit was halfway down my torso.  So I scrapped that in favor of something that I knew would work, namely Ottobre.  With a base pattern in place, I knew it would be easy to grab the style details from the MyImage tunic.

Pleated Trim Tunic Dress

Ottobre 05-2007-15

If you remember one of my #2017makenine was this shirtdress/tunic from MyImage.

Well, I did a muslin of that pattern, and it was an utter disaster.  Somebody commented on my Instagram that her experience with MyImage is that they’re drafted for tall Dutch people.  Being neither tall nor Dutch, all I can say is that the armpit was halfway down my torso.  I looked like a little girl wearing her Daddy’s shirt.  So I scrapped that in favor of something that I knew would work, namely Ottobre.  With a base pattern in place, I knew it would be easy to grab the style details from the MyImage tunic.

Ottobre 5-2007-15 is a longer version of Ottobre 5-2007-2 shirt that I’ve made multiple times in various forms.  It’s meant to be worn as a unstructured jacket, so I did a little (or a lot) of monkeying about to make it into a shirtdress.

Pleated Trim Tunic

Pattern changes

  • Back: I rotated out the shoulder darts and converted them into a back yoke. I think yokes look way better and they make for a cleaner inside finish.  Because of my limited fabric, the yokes and collar stands are cut on the crossgrain.
  • Fronts: The original pattern has a wide facing, but I opted for just button bands. I knew I’d be adding a collar stand, so there was no need for a facing that extended up into the shoulder. This was also a much needed fabric saver solution.
  • Darts: The shirt as is too boxy for me in the waist, so I draped out vertical darts in the front and the back. I really wish that the original pattern had these included in them. You could borrow the darts from the tops except that they sit a little too low.
  • Sleeves: I added cuffs with pleats in the sleeve bottom.
  • Collar: I never really liked the collar without a stand on the original top. I altered a collar stand from another pattern that didn’t work out for me to fit the neckline of this pattern.

Pleated Trim Tunic

Styling additions

  • Pockets: I added pockets on the fronts. The fabric for the cuffs, pockets, and trim comes from scraps of the embroidered voile leftover from this skirt.  My hope was to break up the print a little with the voile.  The shape of the pocket I borrowed from another Ottobre pattern in the same issue.
  • Button tabs:  The MyImage tunic has button tabs that hide under the full length of the sleeve.  When you go to cuff the tunic, the tabs wrap around the cuff and fasten with a button above it.  You really don’t need any kind of a pattern piece for this.  Just cut a rectangle 2.5″ wide by however long you want.  Interface half of it lengthwise, bring WST and stitch around 1 short end and the long side, turn and topstitch.  Finish it with a buttonhole and sew it on the wrong side of the sleeve where you want it to fasten.  The exact placement you’ll probably have to fiddle around with a little.  The square shank buttons I used along the placket were too bulky for the sleeve tabs (I had buttons growing out of my arms!), so I opted for flatter plain shirt buttons on the button tabs.

The pleated trim–my favorite part!

Pleated Trim Tunic

The collar, right front and cuffs are trimmed with pleated trim I made from the unembroidered selvedge edges of the voile. (there was just over 6″ of plain fabric on both sides of the selvedge).  I saw a random Facebook video showing the technique and immediately knew I’d incorporate the trim into this top (I’m not sure where I saw the video, but there’s tons of YouTube videos on fork pleating and also web tutorials).  A small cocktail fork became my measuring device for the pleats. With limited fabric, I went for the cocktail fork over a larger fork because it makes shorter pleats.  I also made pleated trim for the cuffs from the cotton lawn.

The trim is basted into place between the seams just like you would do for piping.  Rounding the corners with the pleats is the only tricky part.  The length of the pleats made for some not so pretty corners on the collars.  After a lot of unpicking, I folded in pleats just to round the corner.  It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with the end result.  I am happy that the trim running down the center is just right.  That strong vertical line that I was hoping to create with the trim is right where I wanted it to be.

Stay tuned tomorrow for my denim jacket!  It’s been a project that got shelved for a long time, and I’m glad I finally made the time to sew it up.

Pleated Trim Tunic

 

hummingbird tee

I’m probably out of my mind, but I’m attempting the Wardrobe Sudoku contest at PR this month.  It’s a tall order to make 10 items in 2 months, but as I started work, all of my plans kept falling in a similar color palette.  The writing and photography aspect of this will be the toughest.  Getting in 10 individual reviews plus a composite review plus my own writing here is no small task.  Yet, on the sewing end, I’m putting the finishing touches on item #6.  That’s not too bad for the better part of 4 weeks to go.  My first two items are this hummingbird tee and Burda denim skirt.

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