My sewing group and I have a wonderful church basement that we get to work in every month. It’s next to the kitchen, it has tons of natural light, and we regularly get 2 large tables EACH to work with. Basically, it’s an ideal work situation with one small problem–the chairs are super low, metal folding chairs that are as hard as rocks. By the end of our long work day, I always have a headache from being ergonomically disadvantaged.
Perhaps you, like me have a place where you sew away from home that has equally bad chairs. But we sew, right?
When it’s cold outside, the sweaters, they just fly into my basket at the thrift store if they happen to be the right color. I run cold and my sewing room is in a chilly basement where my space heater is on (when the iron is not) 365 days of the year. Usually that nebulous “small” “medium” “large” sizing works for me in sweaters. I alter them to fit if they’re too big, but this time I didn’t pay attention and bought a size way too small.
I really must not have been paying attention because belted sweaters really need to have enormous fronts to cross over enough so that that dreaded gappity gap doesn’t happen at center front. Normally, I’d chalk it up to experience and let the $3 go, but I really liked the hood on this sweater. With just a 2 way separating zipper, Steam a Seam, a couple fabric scraps and the existing belt, I changed it into a much more wearable sweater. Have a belted cardigan that gapes at CF? You can fix yours too.
Refashion a belted cardigan into a zippered jacket
There is no end really to the variety of venise lace available. For this tutorial, I used 2 feather appliques from Mary Not Martha. On a sleeve, you’ll want an applique that roughly fits in your forearm area length and width wise without getting into the seam allowances.
I love the tabs on the sleeves and the hidden button placket. What I came to discover through zooming was a lowered waist seam on the front. The cool thing about this is that you can sew on the placket pieces on each upper front, then overlap them and sew them as one into the lower front. It’s cool because it’s difficult to get plackets lay flat on polo necklines–the bottom is always a tricky biscuit of a corner.
Lori of Girls in the Garden and the Sew Forth Now podcast turned me onto Cabi. They have some great designs in such bright happy colors. Browsing their site, I was drawn to this tee (despite perhaps it just being plain old white and not the aforementioned bright happy colors).
It’s more or less a v-neck with a center panel and gathers right in the bust area along the panel. It looked simple enough in form, so I thought it would be a good first project for The T-Shirt Project as well as a chance to try out some simple drafting. Here’s my version:
To make your own, you will be dividing the front of your t-shirt into 2 sections. Here’s the process:
Lining a dress is a good thing. It cuts down on wrinkling, gives the dress the right amount of body, and makes the dress more opaque. Besides the added expense of lining a dress, there are times when it is not convenient or complicated to line a dress. In those cases, slips are a good alternative. This 10 minute full slip tutorial couldn’t be easier, too, so you’ll never have to line another knit dress unless you want to.
Are you a stabber? I sure am. Somehow I manage to not step on pins, but I’m always pricking my fingers with them and my only defense seems to be a good pincushion…but then, I forget where I’ve put those. So I figured out a solution–attach it to myself via wrist. But then there’s the stabbing issue on a larger, less calloused part of my body. Here’s my attempt to fix that problem too: