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Pattern hacking

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It’s the finals in Fabric Mart’s Fabricista Fashion Challenge, and this week is called “Find your inner designer.”  The goal is to make a look that could theoretically fit into a designer’s collection, with the added caveat that the resulting garment(s) should fit into your lifestyle.  There is, after all a whole lotta crazy on the runways. 

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clockwise from upper left: Balmain pastel aqua, Balmain pastel pink and blue, Miu Miu lace collar, Miu Miu strong vertical lines in velvet, Miu Miu highly textured skirt plus cardigan, Miu Miu faux fur sleeves with tabs

The search for my inner designer took me to the Fall 2016 runway shows of Balmain and Miu Miu.  I’ve always loved Balmain’s denim, but I was drawn to this show because of the color.  As a person who looks best in lighter colors, I love the light airy hues of this show.  I’ve never understood why it is that pastel shades are reserved for Spring and Summer in the fashion world.  Yay for Balmain and others for challenging that.

This season, a lot of designers used a lot of highly textured fabrics in their collections.  Miu Miu was my favorite.  There are velvets, wools, faux furs, laces, tapestry all combined into highly layered looks.  For me, layering is what fall is about.  Our average temperatures can range from snow to the high 70s with everything in between.  With so much variance, having clothes that can be easily layered keeps me prepared.  My look combines the candy colors of Balmain with the textured fabrics of Miu Miu into this velvet top, wool cardigan, and jacquard jumper dress.

Velvet Top

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Pattern

For this top, I copied a Banana Republic cashmere blend sweater I’ve owned for several years.  It has cap sleeves, a scoop neckline + a turtleneck that is tied so that one side of the neck drapes.  I love the style so much, and really, I’ve always intended to copy it.  I slashed and spread the neckline of my t-shirt pattern’s front to get the gathers.  The turtleneck is a 21″ X 14″ rectangle sewn into a tube that’s a giant neck binding.  The tie piece is 15″ X 3″ sewn into a tube and tapered at the ends.

Working with velvet

The velvet for this top came from a nice quality throw blanket I’ve used for guests.  It’s stretch velvet on one side and faux fur on the other.  Velvet can be really visually heavy due to the fact that it absorbs light.  Because of that and because I’ve only ever seen stretch velvets in the dark jewel tones that don’t look the best on me, I’ve never worked with stretch velvet.  But this velvet IS one of my colors!  The only problem with sewing with velvet is that you have to sew with velvet.  And velvet is quite a demanding lady.

When I cut the pieces for my top, the velvet curled up completely…like Shirley Temple curls.  Pins are useless with velvet; they leave holes in it and do not help with the creep factor.  Because of velvet’s pile, when two layers of it are together, they will fight against each other and feed at drastically uneven rates.  I once made a set of velvet floor pillows and discovered that it is actually possible to cut 2 rectangles of fabric the same size and end up with one seam 4″ longer than the other.  To tame the curling and the creep factor, every single seam was hand basted within the seam allowance.  I used an extra-fine beading needle so as not to damage the velvet.  When hand-basted, the seams sewed up really quite easily.

The fabric was so drapey and slippery, that I had to hold the neckline gathers into place while sewing even though I had hand-basted the seam so they didn’t slip out entirely.

I had to make a tiny buttonhole on the turtleneck piece that the tie threads through.  There’s a layer of lightweight sew-in interfacing between the layers of velvet, and the velvet layers were sandwiched between 2 layers of tissue paper.  The paper keeps the velvet moving under the feed dogs and protects the fabric from the friction of the buttonhole foot.

Sort of bagging a knit top lining

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I chose to line the top for a clean finish and to cut down on the “show every lump and bump” factor.  The technique I used is similar to bagging a jacket lining because you end up sewing everything backwards and inside out.

  1. To do this, I cut a front and back from stretch mesh 1″ shorter on the hem than the velvet.
  2. Sew the shoulder seams only.
  3. Then you sew the right side of the neck’s lining to the wrong side of the top’s neckline towards the neck so that when you flip  it, it rolls towards the body of the garment covering the neck seam entirely.
  4. After that, the right side of the lining to the wrong side of the sleeve seams on the side towards the sleeve.  Don’t sew completely around the sleeve.  Leave the bottom of the lining’s armscye unsewn the amount of your seam allowance to allow for when you sew the side seams.  The lining will cover the raw seams when you turn it right side out inside the top.
  5. To finish installing the lining, bring the wrong sides of the side seams together and sew.  Leave the lining hanging free or enclose it in the garment’s hem as I did here.

The hem stitches are hidden in the mesh.  I sewed the sleeve hems with the beading needle, keeping them as invisible as was possible.

Wool Cardigan

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Pattern and fabric

A lot of the looks in the Miu Miu show used sweaters and jackets with faux fur cuffs on extra long sleeves.  A lot of those cuffs were gathered up slightly with sleeve tabs.  I really love the texture of those, so I decided to incorporate those elements into a wool cardigan.  I’m using a blush Italian wool pointelle sweater knit I bought from Emma One Sock 3 years ago.  The pattern is Burdastyle 3-2013-107.  This pattern is a v-neck cardigan with front bands that are gathered along the fronts.

I made this pattern a while back, and the original sweater has too much length in the front bands.  Out came 1.5″ in the band and I also took out 1.5″ divided between 2 darts in the front that taper to zero at the armscye.  I’m not sure what this alteration is, but clearly, there was fullness there that didn’t need to be there.  The bands and the upper chest now sit nice and flat.

Cuffs and buttons

To add the faux fur cuffs, I cut the sleeves 3″ shorter than usual.  I drafted a quick cuff pattern that takes up the missing length, and I made it slighter wider than the sleeve.  The extra width is needed because the faux fur doesn’t stretch as much as the wool.

I also made cover buttons for the front with the velvet.  There’s a layer of the same mesh lining I used for the velvet top in each button for opacity.  I could not make buttonholes in the fronts because of the narrow bands and the loft of the knit.  Instead, I opted to sew the velvet buttons as decoration and use snap tape on the inside for a closure.  I hand dyed the snap tape so it wasn’t so stark white.

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Button tabs

The button tabs have 2 layers of the knit and a layer of fusible interfacing.  I cut them from a quick pattern piece I made up.  I topstitched each tab to add the tailored look that the Miu Miu pieces have.  They’re sewn into the wrong side of each sleeve where the cuff and the sleeve meet.  Then they fold up over the top of each sleeve to fasten with a button a little above the cuff.

Removable collars

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A lot of the Miu Miu looks employ contrasting collars.  Some of them are lace, some knitted, some velvet, and all of them create another layer of texture.  I made 2 removable collars I can use to add or remove texture to my look.  One is from the faux fur from the cuffs.  There are tiny elastic loops between the fur and the lining that hold the collar in place.  The elastic fastens around 7 buttons sewn to the inside neckline of the cardigan.

The second collar I made from a vintage lace collar from my Grandmother-in-law’s stash.  The lace had a tiny strip of netting meant for you to sew the collar into a neck seam.  I sewed 2 pieces of bias tape around the netting to make a collar stand.  The elastic loops are sewn between the layers of bias tape.

I really like that I can get multiple looks from the same sweater by adding one of the collars.  The faux fur also adds a layer of warmth for cooler days, and the lace is good for warmer days.

Jaquard Jumper Dress

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In my research for this challenge, I came across the current trend of jumper dresses.  Who knew?  I was pretty excited about this.  I’m a Mom of 4, and my youngest is nursing.  Dresses are tough for me to wear because there’s so many styles that are not nursing-friendly.  My solution in the past has been to wear separates.  Still, I love wearing dresses.  Jumper dresses allow for easy access while still allowing you to wear an actual dress.  They also solve another problem for me.

Being a violinist, I need freedom for my shoulders to move.  I end up wearing knits 95% of the time that I’m playing and most of the time that I’m not for this reason.  Woven fabrics just don’t move as easily.  I’m prone to injury in my upper back from this specific overuse of those muscles, so I have to be careful that I don’t wear any fabrics or styles that confine my movement too much.  The jumper dress lets me still move around while being able to wear an actual woven fabric.

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Pattern and fabric

For my jumper dress, I used BWOF 2-2008-112 which is a princess seam jumper with an empire bust and pocket flaps at the in-seam pockets.  To incorporate the texture I was aiming for from the Miu Miu inspiration, I chose this pattern jacquard and more of the velvet from the turtleneck for the trim.  A lot of the Miu Miu pieces incorporated velvet or satin in strong vertical design lines.  The princess lines gave me the opportunity to use the same kind of vertical lines in my dress with the trim.

There are more velvet cover buttons on the pocket flaps and the button tabs.

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inner designer

 

Construction

I cut strips of the velvet and folded each in half lengthwise.  Hand basting holds each piece of trim together.  After making each piece of trim, more hand basting attaches each line of trim to the jacquard.  The trim on the button tabs comes to mitres in the corners.  I used a beading needle to tack down the trim to the body of the dress.  As I was doing this, I tried to catch just the bottom layer of the velvet.

The hem is a blind hem I sewed on my machine.

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Fitting

I shortened the hem by 1.75″ for a better proportion.  Just like with my sheath dress, there’s a series of small alterations I did to make the armhole smaller for my petite frame.  I took out:

  1.  1/2″ dart I rotated out of the back armhole to make the armhole slightly smaller and also take out the back gaping.
  2. I took in the side seams 1″ at the bottom of the armhole.  This is a dart effectively that tapers back to the seamline at the bottom of the empire waist.
  3. The front straps are shortened by 1″ and button tabs are shortened by 1.5″

Definitely this week was a challenge, but I’m so grateful to have made it to the finals, and I’m glad I was able to complete my goals for this week!

You can check out the other entries and vote for mine at the Fabric Mart Blog.

Vote for my entry here!

showlove9

This week’s challenge is to “Show some love” to an item in our closets that we don’t wear as much as we could.  To do this we were to sew 2 different pieces that can separately coordinate with the unworn item.  My answers to this challenge are this floral sheath dress and geometric hem tunic.

My unloved item is this tan knitted Cabi bolero jacket.  I picked it up in a consignment store when I was pregnant with my 3rd son.  At the time, I thought I’d wear it often due to the fact that bolero jackets by nature don’t approach my then expanding tummy.  I loved the flower embellishment, and the tan color is just about my perfect neutral color.

In practice, I never could figure out how to wear this jacket.  Every dress I tried to pair it with resulted in a really boring color combination or created an odd silhouette.  I also tried pairing it with knit tops.  Most of my knit tops have 3/4-length sleeves.  Somehow, the combination of a cap sleeve and ¾ length sleeve ended up visually shortening my already short arms.  The end result was awkward.  Still, I’ve always hung onto this jacket, in hopes that I’d figure out how to wear it another time.  My style solutions are this geometric hem tunic and floral sheath dress.

Geometric Hem Tunic

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A couple of years ago, I bought a ready to wear tunic.  It features this really cool seaming in the front and back that flare out into a geometric hem.  I love the lines of this top, but it is at least 4 sizes too big for me and not a good color on me.  It’s always been my goal to modify my TNT t-shirt pattern into something very much like this tunic.

To do this, I traced off a fresh copy of my t-shirt pattern (which is Jalie 2921 minus the v-neck and scarf collar, plus the scoop neck of an Ottobre t-shirt).  Then, I set my t-shirt pattern over the tunic and traced off the style lines.  The tunic was meant for someone with a larger body circumference, but also someone much taller than me.  At 5’2.5”, tunics are always a little tricky; they’re usually too long, and I can wear them as dresses.

To get the style lines in a better place for me, I raised the points where the seams intersected.  I looked at the points where the lines crossed and  hit the side seams proportionally to the length of the original tunic then transferred that to my own proportionally shorter pattern.  I also took in the waist considerably.  Trying to fit my waist without losing the draping, flared side seams was a bit of a challenge.  In the end, I came up with side seams that kept the effect of the original tunic without leaving me swimming in fabric.

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Mixing knits

I took the majority fabric for this top from a RTW striped cotton/rayon/spandex t-shirt.  The weight of this knit is great for a fall/winter tee.   Since I had limited yardage to work with, I chose two other knits to coordinate with the stripe: a tan cotton poly jersey, and a peachy pink stretch lace.  Mixing knits is one of my favorite things in making t-shirts.  One tip for mixing knits is to make sure that the knits are of similar weight and stretch.  This way the knits will sew together easily, and you’ll get smooth, pucker-free seams.

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The lace sections are underlined with the tan jersey.  First, I cut out the pattern pieces from the tan jersey.  After that, I overlaid the jersey pieces with the lace and hand basted around the perimeter of the pieces.  Then cut lace edges even with the jersey and treat the two fabrics as one.

Lace is also added over the left sleeve.  When I had sewn the front to the back as well as the sleeve seams, I noted the height where the lace from the bottom front would hit the sleeve horizontally when the t-shirt was finished.  Then I made a quick pattern piece by modifying my sleeve pattern so that it continues the seam line on the lace.  I like how the lace has a different look when backed with the stripe vs. the jersey.

I played around with the stripes a little bit by cutting the neck binding on the bias.  The striped section on the back also runs verticallyThis stripe knit has 4-way stretch, so I knew that turning it as I pleased would not affect the fit because of the additional stretch.

To construct the top, I used my sewing machine and a zigzag stitch to finish.  I usually serge all of my knit tops, but with the lace, I wanted a more delicate finish.

I’m really happy with how the bolero works with the long sleeve.  Also, because the colors of the bolero are actually in the colors of the knit top, I think they harmonize really well together.

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clockwise: welt pockets, tricot lining, rtw tunic vs. me-sized tunic, zigzag seam finish

Floral Sheath Dress

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Pattern/Fabric

For my second coordinate, I chose Ottobre 2-2009-17.  It’s a lined sheath dress.  I chose this pattern because the floral print does not get broken up by any horizontal seams on the front or back.

For this dress, I used nice midweight cotton batik I had in my stash.  The full lining is brown tricot.  This pattern has 4 neckline pleats which I secured with invisible hand stitches.  There’s so many darts on this pattern!  Between the lining, facing, and the fashion fabric, there’s 20 darts to sew!

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Fitting

At the outset, I have to mention that I’m petite.  I’m not only shorter than average, but my frame is quite narrow.  Typically, I avoid a lot of alterations by grading down the neck and shoulders of all patterns at least one size to a size 32 in European patterns and various sizes in other patterns.  I also have to shorten hems and sleeves.  These two alterations I do immediately, without question, but sometimes I encounter a more challenging fit problem.  Though this is a simple dress in theory, the sleeveless armhole took me a long time to get right.

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I’m short proportionally between my shoulder and my bust, so sleeveless armholes always have too much circumference.  The end result is that the armholes dip down too low and my bra shows.  Not exactly a classy look, and it’s really uncomfortable.

I didn’t have time this week to make a muslin for this dress as I would normally to check the armhole.  Instead, I found myself reverse-engineering the fit to get what I needed.  Ultimately, I think I ended up with a better fit than the times I’ve tried to conquer sleeveless armholes.

Making a smaller armhole after cutting

To make the armhole smaller (which in turn raises the armhole to an appropriate level), I took out 2″ from the bottom of the armhole, tapering down to zero 3.25″ below into the side seam.  There was a little excess fabric in the bust, so I could confidently take out what I needed in the side seam without ending up with an unwearable dress.

The back armhole also was gaping a little, so I pinned out 5/8″ from the back armhole edge.  Not wanting to have a visible dart in the back armhole, I rotated this excess out into the shoulder seam.  The excess taken out tapers to zero at the back shoulder’s neck edge.

Usually I do horizontal folds out of the front and back and the sleeve if I need to “petite” a pattern, but this raises the neckline.  Since the neckline depth was already at a height I liked, I was glad to have discovered an armhole alteration that not only doesn’t affect the neckline, but one that I could change after the fact.  There’s some pieces of RTW in my closet that I’m totally pulling out and fixing with these alterations!

Extra features

The pattern did not have any pockets, so I added 2 single welt pockets on the front.

I also added a vent in the back so that I could walk around with ease.

I really like how the color of the bolero picks up the browns in the floral print.  Silhouette-wise, I think the jacket and the dress work really well together too.  Though it’s a sleeveless dress, this will be a good transition piece for me into fall.  Our falls tend to stay warm for a long time.  I can always add a layering tee under the dress for an extra bit of warmth if needed.

I loved making both of these garments!  Now I have 2 pieces to combine with a jacket I’ve always wanted to wear!

You can check out the other participants’ entries and vote for my dress and top at the Fabric Mart blog.

 

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.

 

jeanius

When Portia Lawrie of Makery announced that this years #Refashioners2016 challenge was denim, I couldn’t not participate in the community challenge.  Between my catalog of my own jeans I’ve made and the wide variety of details collected on my Altered Denim board, it should be clear that when in comes to denim, I’m very serious about thinking beyond a basic pair of jeans.  So cutting up existing jeans and making something new?  That’s pretty much about the happiest challenge I can think of.  That I ended up with this Jeanius Pastel Denim Trench Coat–even better.  Who doesn’t love it when a plan comes together just like you want it to?

mixed media tank

This lace mixed media tank is one of the projects I’ve made in the past couple months post baby that I haven’t got around to writing about.  It’s part refashion, part working with available materials, and a whole lotta pattern hacking in between.  The inspiration for this one was this Anthropologie tank:

Laced Montage Tank - anthropologie.com:

I love how Anthropologie uses fabric, but I don’t often often copy their stuff literally.  This tank was an exception.  I like the woven bottom together with the lace stitched on top of the side seams combined with the comfort of a knit top.  The resulting tunic is just the kind of flowy summer top that I was looking to make.

Lace Mixed Media Tank

Pattern(s)

In terms of patterns, I combined no less than 3 patterns to get to my final pattern.  The tank part is Straight Stitch Patterns’ Greenwood Tank.  I liked with that pattern how the shoulder hit well enough to cover my bra line (not necessarily a given with tank patterns), but the armholes were too big.  I used my trusty Jalie 2921 to modify the Greenwood armscye to the circumference I was looking for.  The woven part of the tank is a modified version of the high/low peplum piece from Blank Slate’s Marigold.

Fabric

mixed media tank

For fabric, I used a cotton voile on the peplum leftover from this Mississsippi Ave dress.  I added a CF button placket to make it look like it’s the bottom of a men’s dress shirt.  I cut the same voile in bias strips to bind the neckline and armholes too.

The knit is from an old t-shirt that I’ve had for several years.  I originally bought it soon after my 2nd son was born.  I always liked the color, but not the poofy 3 layered flutter sleeves it had.  They were cumbersome to wear and I couldn’t wear a cardigan with the top because the sleeves were too bulky to fit inside the sweater sleeves.

mixed media tank

 

I carried a little bit of the green down into the sides of the peplum because…hips!  It also is a nice contrast under the lace.

The lace is vintage crochet lace that I picked up thrifting.  It is simply stitched down along the side seams.  I love this kind of lace for its softness and visual texture.  My Mom has always like prints that look like wallpaper.  It turns out I like lace and fabric that looks like (or came from) a tablecloth. 🙂

Project summary

mixed media tank

 

Proportionally the top is overall a bit too long on me.  If I repeat this design, I will definitely shorten the knit and the peplum as well as ditch the high/low element in favor of a straight hem.

Overall, I really love this top.  It was a good challenge to use multiple materials and patterns to get at the final top, and it’s super comfortable and lightweight for the summer heat.

My Monthly Stitch Post on this top is here.

My review of the Greenwood Tank is here.

What’s the max number of patterns and/or fabrics you’ve combined into a finished garment?

mixed media tank

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.

 

zipper top

I’ve read The Renegade Seamstress for a long time now, and I’ve always enjoyed Beth’s Refashion Runway.  I had hoped to compete this year, but this season is an All-Stars edition.  I’m in the middle of just getting my sew jo back post baby and starting to sew for a couple of local boutiques who like my work.  I might be biting off more than I can chew to try and sew along with the contestants, but I’m going to give it my best because refashioning is very much the theme of my work for the boutiques.  This kind of challenge really fires up my brain in the right direction. My contribution to this week is this very 80s zipper top.

zipper top

This week’s theme is velvet.  I asked, and Beth mercifully granted my request of using velour instead.  I say mercifully because velvet is not a fun fabric to sew with.  The high pile makes for layers that shift continuously.  It also has very little stretch, so you can’t really ease the layers back together when they shift like you can with other fabrics.  Velour on the other hand is not so terrible to sew with.  Being a knit, it does ease relatively well, and the layers don’t shift quite as badly as with regular velvet even though they can stretch out of shape.  Plus, I had a velour hoodie on hand.  It’s missing an arm because I used it for another project.  I decided to go for a top that would use the velour plus some rib knit from a maternity hoodie that I bought at the beginning of this pregnancy.  I liked the color and had already planned to refashion it after my daughter was born.

colorblocked workout top
Yay, Essentrics!

It always takes me a while to get back into my sewing/writing/doing life routine after having a baby, and this time I’ve been trying to not be hard on myself about it.  I went through so much sickness after my youngest son, I’ve been careful not to go overboard.  After 3.5 months, I think I’m finally gaining enough energy back to do something beyond the absolutely necessary, so you can consider me back from maternity leave as it were.  And what a way to get back in the swing of it all than with a colorblocked workout top?

fringe collar dress

I didn’t intend to not write for nearly 4 months, but as it has turned out, I’ve needed very little in the way of clothes this pregnancy.  The advantage of having had previous pregnancies that started at a heavier weight is having more than plenty of clothes for the last few weeks when it feels like nothing fits.  But I did go ahead and make this fringe collar dress.  I had this lovely fringe trim leftover from my tablecloth dress, and I’ve been looking for the right project to use some of it.  Hey, and fringe is in right now!  Yay!  After months of absence at the Monthly Stitch, I finally could finish a challenge!

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Fringe Collar Dress

I made Burda 7287 some time ago after being inspired by Kyle’s version, and it has become one of my favorite winter dresses.  Paired with or without the detachable collar, and the fingerless gloves that I wear literally all winter, it’s been a versatile staple in my wardrobe.  For this project, I decided to make the other view on the pattern where you sew on the collar at the neckline and add trim to the bottom edge of the collar if you like.

fringe collar dress

I cut the main part of the dress from some really nice interlock that I scored at the thrift store a couple of years back.  It was one of those days where fortune favors the person willing to go a hunting through the muck and mire when I pulled out this fun black and white print made by Kaufmann.  There was no less than 5 yards of it and I paid $3 or $4 for it.  It’s soft and does not stretch out at all like a lot of interlocks do.  It’s stable enough too that I’ve used some of it to muslin dresses I make in ponte like my opera dress.

Still, I don’t wear black.*  So I knew I needed a way to break up the black so I didn’t get the horrid zombie look that I get when I wear it.

*Well, I will wear black if I’m contractually obligated, i.e. a violin gig, but I’m never happy about it.

I found an XL rib knit sweater in one of my blues while a thrifting one day and I loved the springy feel it had.  Remembering how soft a rib knit sweater had made my Denver Tunic, I decided to combine the blue with the black and white.  It would keep the black away from my face and make for a cozy collar that would look great with the added tablecloth fringe.

fringe collar dress
Keeping the black away from my face.

Though it wasn’t obvious at the time that I deconstructed it, the sweater had raglan sleeves, so I didn’t have quite enough yardage to make a full length sleeve as per the pattern.  Instead, I carried down the black and white to the bottom part of the sleeve, cutting it at an angle like this:

fringe collar dress

The pattern’s sleeve is well past full length on me, which makes sense given that the arms are intended to have thumbholes.  Though I’ve tried many many times to create a good solution for thumbhole tops, I’ve never really been comfortable wearing them, and these are no exception.  In past tops, I’ve done what patterns suggested, just leaving a gap in the side seam which inevitably twists and is generally so small that it cuts off the circulation to your thumbs.

To avoid numb thumb, I cut a 1″ square where my thumbs hit and then used some of the rib knit to bind the edge of the hole.  Now, there’s more than plenty of room for my thumb and the base of my thumbs, so there’s no chance of the blood being cut off to my thumbs.  Still, the thumbs pull on the sleeve when I have my arms extended, like when I’m driving or playing my violin, and they sadly do not offer me any extra warmth.  So next time, I’ll stick with either the sleeveless version with added fingerless gloves, or simply shorten the sleeves to a normal full length on me.  I think thumbhole tops are just simply not my thing along with wrap dresses, maxi dresses, and button-down shirts.

fringe collar dress

As for fitting, I merged this pattern with Burdastyle 6-2010-132 which is a crossover style maternity dress.  I always loved how the Burdastyle pattern fit.  A lot of maternity patterns have excessive ease, flare and gathering that just ends up making you look and feel like a marshmallow, but this one is cut in a really slimming sort of way.  It gives you enough room for the growing baby, but nothing crazy beyond that.  Still, I’m kind of over crossover styles.  I had experimented with merging this pattern with my normal t-shirt for a pajama top, and I liked my experiment enough to go ahead with a dress.  All it required me to do was to match up CF lines, overlap the crossover section with the lower front panel at the seamline and use the neckline of the non-maternity dress and the outer edges of the maternity panel where it was needed.  No extra tracing, no extra fitting or pattern work.  This was a fast and dirty alteration.

I did keep the seam allowances bigger than I otherwise would have, and I simply sewed them instead of serging them off or trimming them as I would have on a regular knit dress.  My logic was that I’d only be wearing this as a maternity dress for 2 months tops.  With the extra seam allowances intact and unfinished, it’ll be easy for me to go back and open up the front, removing the elastic and cutting it to fit the original lines of the non-maternity pattern.

My favorite feature is the collar.  The rib knit drapes so well, adds a nice layer of warmth and looks great scrunched up with a vintage brooch.

Overall, it was good to get back in the saddle before all the craziness happens in a month or so with my body being any number of sizes.

My updated review is here.

fringe collar dress

How much have you ever made for your own pregnancies?  Do you shelve your machine momentarily, relying on RTW maternity options, or sew up a storm to weather the season?

 

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.

 

add a drawstring cowl to a t-shirt

Add a Drawstring Cowl to a T-shirt Pattern

I was hoping to get this up when the article came out last week, but one thing led to another, and now I’m playing catch up.

If you haven’t seen it, I wrote a tutorial over at Up Craft Club to show you how to add a drawstring cowl to a t-shirt.  This is the perfect tutorial as we (hopefully) are heading into fall.  Come fall, all I want to wear and make are big fat cozy tops with huge scarves.  Cowl necks are even better because the scarf is attached.  Some time ago I had been mulling over the idea of adding a drawstring cowl to my favorite t-shirt pattern.  I had seen one of the many sporty ladies I come across in my daily life wearing something similar, and I liked the casual touch that the drawstring added to a neck shape I already loved.  The time seemed right to figure out how to make it happen.  It’s crazy easy to adapt a pattern to add this feature.

add a drawstring cowl to a t-shirt

This tee I made up from a soft poly jersey from Cali Fabrics.  I blockprinted the front using a pinking shear stamp that I carved a while back and an ink pad suitable for fabric after heat setting.  It turns out, I really like how clear the stamp impressed on the fabric using the ink vs. screenprinting ink that I have been using for blockprinting.  It also is completely flat, or rather, there’s no added dimension of chunkiness on the fabric from any kind of paint, so the hand is completely smooth.  I haven’t sent it through the wash yet, and no doubt I will send it through a cycle on the dryer to hedge my bets on the heat setting directions.  The jury is still out as to whether the ink will survive the wash, but I have my fingers crossed!

add a drawstring cowl to a t-shirt

So if you’re longing for a big cozy cowl this fall, check out this quick and easy tutorial right here.

add a drawstring cowl to a t-shirt

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.

mixed print Lane raglan

Today I’m writing over at UpCraftClub!  Check out my first post over there where I’m sharing a way to incorporate mixed prints into your next Lane Raglan tee.

 

I’ve been dreaming up a pair of fall/winter pajamas made from this great peach pony thermal knit fabric, but the store that I bought it from was going out of business, so I had limited yardage to play with.  After sorting through my scraps, I found some great coordinating fabrics.  With a little pattern hacking, I combined everything into a very cozy pair of pajamas which, no doubt will serve me well when it stops being a million degrees outside.  You can read all about my process and see my tutorial for this particular pattern hack here.

laneraglanmysquare

Mixed Print Lane Raglan

laneraglanmyportrait2

 

Elizabeth Made This

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.

 

Baseball Fan Dress: Elizabeth Made This

In my household, we’re Giants’ fans.  Though I had no allegiances to any sports teams when I got married, my husband has convinced me that baseball is a worthy thing to root for.  After sitting through hundreds of hours, it finally clicked for me that I was invested in this sport and this team.  It gives me and my husband something to talk of at length.  And dash it all, if Grant Brisbee isn’t a brilliantly funny writer.  His columns alone pushed me over the edge into fandom.

Still, up until this point, I’ve had one problem with my Giants’ fan status:

I’ve had no fan gear whatsoever.

I’ve made some attempts to wear team colors at games–showing up in a black cardigan over my heathered peach t-shirt.  Unique as my solution was, it was kind of lame in the fan department.

How have I made it through 3 World Series without even a hat?  I have no words for that.

Since my family and I were able to go to a Giants’ game recently in San Francisco, I decided I had to remedy this no fan gear situation.

Baseball Fan Dress

Baseball Fan Dress

This dress has lots of fun features: a chevroned colorblocked mid-section, front mid shoulder gathers, and ruched sleeves.  This is a great dress that shows your team pride and allows your own DIY creativity to shine through.  Guaranteed, you will end up with a unique dress that is a cut above the standard fan t-shirt.  Wait, you’re not a Giants’ fan?  I won’t disrespect you.  You can make your own baseball fan dress by upcycling any team t-shirts.

Baseball Fan Dress

You can serge the entire dress or sew it entirely on a regular sewing machine.  The choice is yours!

Baseball Fan Dress

Materials:

2-3 t-shirts, as big as you can find: 1 MLB team t-shirt and 1 or 2 shirts to coordinate with itbaseball fan dress

Your favorite t-shirt pattern (mine is Jalie 2921, with a scoopneck addition from a different pattern) with a short or cap sleeve

A version of your favorite t-shirt pattern that you’ve already made or a t-shirt that fits you well

Patternmaking materials: clear ruler, tape, tissue paper, pen, scissors, marking chalk or pen

Pins

Masking tape or painter’s tape

Thread

Seam ripper

Machine needle suitable for sewing knits (my machine prefers 75/11 Stretch needles, but yours might do better with a ball point needle)

Iron

Directions:

  1. Trace off your t-shirt pattern onto a fresh sheet of tissue paper.  This pattern requires you to alter the front and back pieces.  You will not need to alter the sleeve pattern.
  2. Put on your favorite t-shirt and mark with a pin where the bottom of your bust is at CF.  Mark with another pin where your natural waist is.  Draw a line with a marking pen to connect the two points (or thread trace).
  3. Lay the FRONT PIECE of your pattern tissue over the t-shirt and transfer the under bust and waist mark.  Draw a straight line to connect the two.  It should be a line that angles downward.
  4. Draw another line parallel to the first line in step 3 that is 2″ wide, then draw another line 2″ wide.  This will create the two panels on either side of CF.baseball fan dress
  5. To create the skirt, extend the bottom of the front piece down to your desired length (I chose to end mine just above my knee which required an additional 13″).  Flare out the hem slightly to give yourself some walking ease.
  6. Cut apart the sections at the lines, adding seam allowances on every side you cut.***  Front top to bottom, label the new pieces Front Bodice, A, B, and Front Skirt. You will also need to add a seam allowance at CF on pieces A and B.  
  7. Lay the front skirt piece over the back so that they are lined up at the side seams.  Mark where the seam line hits at the side seam and at CF.  Repeat steps 3-6 for the back piece.  Label the new pattern pieces Back bodice, C, D, and Back Skirt.  Don’t forget to add seam allowances on every side you cut plus at CB on pieces C and D.
  8. In addition to these pieces, cut a rectangle 1.25″X4.5″ for the sleeve casings, and another rectangle 17″ X 1″ for drawstrings.
  9. Optional:  On the front bodice piece, draw a line parallel to the shoulder seam about 3″ down from the shoulder seam.  Cut apart the pattern at the seam line, adding seam allowances on either side of the line.  Slash the top part of the shoulder piece from the bodice end to the shoulder seam line in 4 places.  Spread the pattern 1/2″ at each slash and tape the resulting shape onto new tissue.  You will gather the bodice end of the shoulder piece into the bodice piece when you sew.baseball fan dressbaseball fan dress

***I prefer 1/4″ seam allowances on knit fabrics.  That’s the regular seam width on my serger, but even if you sew this with a regular machine, 1/4″ seam allowances will help you be really accurate when you sew the chevroned sections since your needle will be physically very close to the seam line.  If you prefer wider seam allowances, add whatever seam allowance makes you comfortable.

*Pattern done! Let’s sew!*

Construction:

      1. Use your seam ripper to remove the neck binding of your team t-shirt.  Set it aside.baseball fan dress
      2. Before you start cutting up your t-shirts, plan out how you want to use the t-shirts for color blocking the mid section. Make sure that you center your team logo over the front bodice.  If you alternate the colors at the side seams, you’ll have to flip over your pattern piece as you cut.  You might want to draw yourself a quick sketch to help (in real life the back will not so much wider than the front, but drawing in GIMP is a new experiment for me).  baseball fan dressHere’s a cutting inventory:  [supsystic-tables id=”1″]
      3. Cut your pattern pieces from your various t-shirts according to your diagram.  Make small clips with your scissors on the front bodice, front skirt, back bodice and back skirt to mark the CF and CB points and also at the top of the sleeves caps. If you can, try to incorporate the hems from the original t-shirts on the sleeves and the front and back.
      4. To keep the colorblocked sections (A, B, C, D) straight, mark each piece with a piece of masking tape near the side seambaseball fan dress
      5. Place right sides together of the A pieces at CF.  Sew down CF using a narrow zigzag stitch (.5 width, 2.5 length).  Press open the seam.  Repeat for the B, C, and D pieces.
      6. Place the A and B sections right sides together and stitch from side seam to side seam, pivoting the needle directly at CF.  If you’re nervous about matching the seam, stitch a few basting stitches right at the CF intersection.
      7. Repeat step 6-7 for the C and D sections.
      8. Sew the front bodice to the top of the A sections in the same manner as you did the chevroned sections, pivoting at CF.  Sew the front skirt to the bottom of the B section, also in the same manner.
      9. Sew the back bodice to the top of the C sections, and sew the back skirt to the bottom of the D sections, pivoting at CB.
      10. Using a long, straight stitch, sew 3 rows of gathering stitches on the wider section of the front shoulder pieces.  Pull on the bobbin threads to gather the stitches.  Placing right sides together, sew the front shoulder pieces to the front bodice.  Remove the gathering stitches.  Press the seam towards the bodice, then topstitch the seam close to the seam.
      11. Place the front and back of the dress right sides together, and sew the right shoulder seam.
      12. Place the raw edge of the ribbing against right side of the neck edge.  Sew the ribbing to the neck, pulling on the ribbing only as you sew.  The goal is for the ribbing to lie flat…if it doesn’t, remove the stitches and pull on the ribbing more firmly so that you end up using less ribbing.  Cut off the excess ribbing.
      13. Sew the left shoulder seam and the ribbing seam in one.  Backstitch at the end of the neck to secure the stitches.
      14. Fold in the raw edges of the casings and press (I cut the casings with one of the short sides on a hemmed edge.  If you didn’t, hem one short side).  Placing the hemmed side of the casing towards the bottom of the sleeve, lay the casing vertically in the middle of the sleeve and pin the long sides.
      15. Fold the raw edges of the drawstrings towards the middle of each drawstring piece and press.  Fold the pressed edges of the drawstrings together and stitch down the fold.
      16. Fold each drawstring in half and thread it through the top of the casing so that it sits just below the pressed edge.
      17. Starting and ending at the hemmed corners, topstitch around the 3 pressed edges of the casing, backstitching at the hemmed corners. Be sure that you catch the drawstring at the top of each casing.  The drawstrings can be pulled up and tied if desired at this point.
      18. While the dress is still flat, sew in the sleeves, matching the clip to the shoulder seam.
      19. Placing the front and back together, sew the side seams and sleeve seams in one step.  Be careful to match the chevrons at the side seams, basting, if necessary to make sure you match the seams.baseball fan dress
      20. Hem the sleeves and bottom of your dress if you didn’t reuse the hems from your original t-shirts.baseball fan dress

baseball fan dress*That’s it!  Wear your Baseball Fan Dress to the park with pride!

Your team won’t win if you don’t cheer!*

baseball fan dress

 

My review is here.
Elizabeth Made This

Let’s keep the conversation going!  Check out my sewing dreams and inspiration on Pinterest, and keep up to date on my projects on Instagram and Facebook.