For my contribution to The Monthly Stitch’s Separates Challenge for Indie Pattern Month, I made up Blank Slate Patterns’ Marigold Peplum and paired it with a severely modified version of Jalie 3022 (yoga pants).
Marigold Peplum and Jalie yoga pants
Perhaps I’ve had shirtdresses on the brain for a while, or maybe it really is true that nearly everyone who is a sewing blogger has made a fantastic shirtdress in the past 6 months or so. At any rate, Marigold qualifies as a great shirtdress. I love the pretty gathers at the shoulder. They’re more delicate than a dart and are easier to sew to boot.
I also love the feminine lines of the stand collar. Sometimes big pointy collars can overwhelm my frame, so it’s great to have an alternative.
But Marigold also has a top and a skirt option, so you get a lot of choices. For the top, I chose the high/low peplum variation with cap sleeves.
I think the high/low peplum has a really lovely overall shape to it. A lot of high/low tops I’ve seen on other women and in stores are really boxy and flowy–great for some but not for my body type. This peplum is nice and fitted at the waist and the shape of the peplum reminds me of the back of a nicely tailored riding jacket.
I had a pair of vintage pillowcases I had set aside for the right project. I loved the funky floral and loved even more that the browns and the blues in the print are in my color palette. This fabric blended beautifully with a very fancy gold metallic linen that I bought at Fancy Tiger. It’s sheer and quite crisp, but to my surprise it washed up without a fuss. The double layered yoke eliminated the problem of sheerness in the linen. The linen also worked perfectly as a contrast yoke, which is what I had intended it for (and why I only bought 1/4 yard).
I stuck with the pattern for the most part, but I did the casing differently. I’m really sensitive to elastic around my middle, and for the life of me, I cannot thread elastic through casings without it twisting. A sensitive middle + twisted elastic =a top I’ll never wear. So instead of threading the elastic through, I quartered the elastic and zigzagged it to the middle of the casing, stretching it between CF/CB and the side seam points. Then I stitched down the top of the casing from the right side per the pattern directions. With this way, the elastic is nice and flat inside the casing and the gathers are extremely even.
I’m so digging into my stash and making a Marigold dress pronto!
As for the pants, I found the perfect color of ponte on a recent thrift store trip. I love finding fabric at the thrift store. It’s a big treasure hunt, and when you find something like this ponte that’s a good color and excellent quality, it’s kind of exciting. I paid $1.50 for the whole length of about 2 yards, and I only needed 1.
I had made Jalie 3022 before in a peach ponte, and as comfortable as those pants are, I just don’t wear bootcut anything anymore. The shape just feels like so much excess fabric and at my height, I always feel off kilter with tons of fabric. I resolved to figure out a way to modify this pattern into a skinny cut.
I took my peach version and put them on inside out, pinning out the excess to shape the leg. I transferred my pin marks to the pattern and connected the dots, then added seam allowance as I cut away really quite a lot of pattern.
I added polka dotted ponte for the lower waistband leftover from my Bird Tessalation Dress. Jalie gives you the option of adding contrast here, and their actual directions for the waistband are excellent–slick even. I fussed with the elastic the first time, but this time, I really paid attention to what the directions said, and the result is a completely hidden elastic application.
I carried the polka dots to the welts on some zippered welt pockets that I added to the fronts. I don’t use pants without pockets and welt pockets are so easy to add to any pattern because you don’t have to draft any pieces.
To finish off the pants, I blockprinted some chevrons onto the side seams with the sides of pink erasers and fabric paint. To see my printing process, you can read my tutorial for Eraser Printed Leggings.