that I’m no where near flat-chested. I wasn’t before Noah came, and I certainly am not now after Noah. This has presented some issues with clothes pretty much since always. Things that fit me across the chest don’t fit me anywhere else…things that fit me everywhere else don’t fit across the chest leading to gapitits/impressive work with safety pins.
I know it’s not a bad idea to buy clothes that fit your widest part and have them tailored down after that, but frankly, if I’m spending $50+ on a button-down shirt, I really don’t want to pay to have it tailored after that. This is why I started sewing for myself and am spending time learning how to fit. So, what with me admitting that I have a full-bust, I set forth on this project:
My first full-bust adjustment. If you don’t already know, commercial patterns are drafted with B cups. Burda patterns I’ve been told are drafted with C cups, and some patterns have C cup and D cup options in the envelopes, which is really nice. So, if you’re larger than a B cup, chances are good that you’ll have to learn to do a fba. I’ve been able to get away with not doing this alteration before now because I’ve only made wrap tops and dresses which I always wear with a camisole anyhow, and I’ve found that maternity patterns are graciously very roomy in that area. The alteration to the pattern was pretty straightforward. The original pattern did not have any bust darts, but through the process of my full-bust alteration, I added some which really helps give this cute, but otherwise pretty shapeless garment some dimension–which you need if you’re full-busted…think about it: The flatter you are, the less 3-dimensionality you have to your chest, so you can get away with styles that are less shaped in the bust.
This will be my version of the Sweet Chemise from Simple Sewing with a French Twist. The original pattern has a casing with ties that run through a casing at the top, thus gathering at the top of the bustline to tie to back ties. Very cute, but since this element didn’t do well covering certain undergarments, I decided to draft my own strap. I was inspired by this top. I’ve sewn the top up to basting the side seams, but I need to have my husband help me fit the sides and the back of the straps as they flare out too much and I can’t really pin by myself accurately. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to finish things.