snake print ITY
I’m starting to understand how to use other patterns to make new patterns better/more successful for me. I know now, for instance that Burda armscyes and me is happy-making and that Jalie’s drafting is exactly what I like in a t-shirt.
Ah, but when I pulled out this Butterick dress (I’ve been looking forward to making it since my second trimester), I didn’t even think to pull out my most favorite Vogue 1027 which has a similar crossover bodice. It’s too bad because I could have saved myself a lot of time and headache. Instead, I winged it, and actually believed what the pattern tissue told me.
What did the pattern tissue tell me? That for a size 8, at the bust measures 43″ on the final pattern. That’s 9.5″ extra for me. I did not want to be swimming in that much fabric, so I took 1/4″ off of the side seam and folded out 1″ parallel to the grainline per Trena’s method for a SBA though I am a DD. I had my doubts about this, but the tissue wouldn’t lie, would it, even though it didn’t look overtly large across the bust? Theoretically, even with all of this, I’d still have plenty extra room. Not so much. It fits, but it wouldn’t hurt to have a little more room. I haven’t flat pattern measured it, but my guess is it’s not close to 43″ even without changes. In addition to this, the bodice is really short lengthwise. I added 1″ to the bottom of it and subtracted an inch from all of the midriff sections (and there are many due to overlays, so this was an easy, but more time consuming fix), which would normally work fine for me on any given empire with a midriff bodice. This one is still about an inch short. I had a hunch it would be, but I ignored my instinct and forged ahead. I could have easily pulled out another pattern with this construction to compare–and I should have given that the length of the bodice always needs to be longer, and midriffs always need to be shorter because my waist is so short.
I’m not horribly sad about this dress. It’s still wearable, but it won’t get as much use as I had hoped. It’s not tight, but I do wish that it had a little more ease, and I’m not crazy about the lack of shoulder coverage along the neck edge. Garments that require undergarment strap adjustment are annoying and one of the first reasons I started sewing for myself in the first place. And though I love the print, this is not the nicest quality ITY–it’s slightly metallic, so it has a kind of crunchy feel that’s less than lovely. I think it’s still a good pattern–I think the less than stellar results were entirely user error. As much as I sew knits, I know a nice length of something or other will come my way and I can try this pattern again. And when I do, I will for sure be pulling out other patterns to help me.
My full review of this pattern is here.